Training Coffee Cuppers
Coffee is a complex beverage, containing literally thousands of flavor chemicals. These chemicals interact, cancel each other, may be prominently perceived or not perceived at all. For this reason, sensory analysis will always play a role in the analysis of coffee.
A well-designed sensory analysis program makes the process as objective and replicable as possible while taking into account the subjective nature that is always present. Consistent sample preparation, sound application of statistics, proper chain-of-custody of samples, and accurate recording of results play the same role in a sensory test as they do in any scientific experiment or procedure. One of the most important aspects of a sensory test is the panelist, known in the trade as a “cupper.” The training of cuppers is necessary so that they can accurately communicate their findings, resulting in a reasonably replicable test that yields actionable results.
Sensory Analysis: Both Physical and Psychological
Sensory analysis occurs when an individual imbibes a food or beverage, and then reports what sensory experiences they have perceived. Their actual perception is the result of physical and chemical interactions between the food and their sensory system. Their psychological state of mind will affect what they perceive and what they will notice and report. The method of reporting utilized will partially determine the cupper’s ability to express their perceptions.
Physical aspects: The physical aspect of sensory perception of food includes the taste (gustation), aromatic (olfactory), visual, and tactile sensations. All of these perceptions are combined in various ways in the brain to formulate overall impressions of the food or beverage.
Just as human beings have different physical features, they also have different sensory systems. Some are more sensitive to certain stimuli than others and it is not unusual that some individuals cannot even perceive a particular flavor that has a strong impact on others. This is one of the main reasons that a panel should be used in any scientifically replicable sensory test. The sensory professional must be aware of his or her own limitations and sensory blind spots.
One difficulty in using the human physical system as a measuring instrument is that the human sensory system responds to change, rather than relating the current sensation to a pre-determined scale. For example, if one individual has just eaten a salty food and another has just consumed a sweet food, when given the same beverage their perceptions will be markedly different. The professional must also be aware of this and compare a coffee from several different perspectives. The human brain is constantly getting thousands of messages from the sensory system. Most of these do not enter one’s conscious mind. One goal of training is to direct one’s attention towards those sensations which are relevant to the particular sensory analysis task. Beginners often have a problem of becoming too specific in their analysis, paying attention only to emphasized attributes and ignoring relevant flavor aspects.
Psychological Aspects: One’s state of mind directly affects one’s ability to perceive. At the most extreme, if a human is in fear of mortal danger, the physical changes that take place restrict one’s ability to taste and smell accurately, since the sensory system directs all of its attention to the potential danger. A person in a bad mood may not be able to appreciate the good qualities of a beverage while a person in a particularly good mood may be inclined to be overly forgiving of poor flavor.
Marketers know that expectations also play a large role in the psychological influence. If a panelist is told that the coffees they are to taste are particularly good (especially if they are told this by an authority figure), they will tend to favorably evaluate the coffee. On the other hand, if they are told to look out for a particular poor flavor (such as staling or ferment), they will tend to be particularly sensitive to those attributes. This tendency must be taken into account in the design of sensory tests.
There are other psychological effects that can occur. If several coffees in a series to be evaluated are good, it is possible that a panelist will give a high score to all coffees in the series and vice-versa (the “halo and horns” effect). A panelist may develop an opinion about the sample that has no basis in reality (“they save the good one for last”, or, “smaller/larger beans are always better” for example). More subtle influences, such as numbers (lucky seven is often preferred) or placement on the table (samples at the ends of the table tend to be preferred) can affect scores.
Training Cuppers: A Gradual Process of Experience and Learning
A cupper’s training must be a progressive program of understanding based upon factual study and direct experience. Knowledge alone is not enough; a good cupper must constantly train his or her sensory system. At the same time, a good factual basis is necessary so the cupper is able to put their experience in context and make reasonable conclusions based upon their perceptions.
The learning process for cupping is gradual. Like training for an athletic event, the cupper’s sensitivity develops with use over time. One also must find which techniques of slurping and spitting work best. The degree of concentration that can be maintained by the individual for longer periods also develops. The amount of cupping that can be accomplished before “palate fatigue” (the point at which perception is less clear to the cupper) sets in also extends with daily cupping.
If the cupper in training practices while paying close attention (rather than simply performing the exercise by rote), the subtleties and nuances of flavor gradually unfold. Just as a guitarist learns that plucking a string a certain way will result in a particular timbre, the cupper learns that certain flavors perceived indicate something particular about the coffee. The trainer plays a role in this development by pointing out more detailed perceptions and providing explanations.
The cupper’s ability to consciously perceive and accurately report their perceptions proceeds through several stages.
The first stage is perception of the strongest and most obvious flavors and classifying those perceptions into a standard language. This includes defects and off flavors and extremes of more pleasant flavors, such as acidity, aromatics, and body. The beginning cupper may focus on these to the exclusion of other perceptions, so the cupper is usually given a form that operates much like a checklist so that nothing important will be missed. Learning the language and terms typically used in relation to particular perceptions is emphasized. The use of scales of various kinds as a means of expressing intensity of the particular flavor attributes is also introduced.
As the cupper’s experience develops, they are able to perceive more details and are less likely to focus upon certain qualities or strictly classify their experience. Their use of scales becomes more consistent and accurate. When they realize that this has taken place, they develop a degree of confidence in their abilities which can be inspiring and cause them to develop greater interest and explore further. However, this confidence can also result in an arrogant know-it-all attitude which will actually limit the cupper’s ability. (This can happen at any stage in a cupper’s career.)
Then the cupper begins to see not only the different attributes, details, and the nuances, but is able to put them into context of the whole flavor experience. This allows them to make more informed business decisions regarding what can be used in certain products and how coffees will work together in blends. This is the beginning of a more creative style.
Throughout this process, the cupper develops an increasing “taste memory”, a mental database of cupping experiences. What is tasted can be regarded in the context of other coffees and previous flavor experiences. This experience can be used in many ways, from training of others to product development.
A Training Approach
The training approach used at Songer & Associates combines knowledge with experience progressively according to the experience and training level of the individual cupper. At the beginning, specific flavor experiences are focused upon, both in isolation and as they appear in coffee. The use of scales as expressions of intensity and quality are also studied in detail, since these are important means of communicating the flavor experience.
This is followed by training in more detailed analysis, including use of descriptors to more specifically pinpoint and communicate the flavor experience. Finally, the cupper draws upon their cupping experience to creatively apply their knowledge to particular business problems.
The programs themselves are 2-5 day seminars that combine lecture, discussion, exercises, other practice, and testing. The aspiring cupper should not try to absorb all information and experiences all at once, but allow a month or so between seminars. It is expected that the student would be performing review exercises, some further study and reading on coffee, and regularly cupping on their own during the periods between formal training. These periods are important so that the learning can be fully apprehended by the student.
Conclusion
Those who have followed this approach have been able to develop successful businesses and gain standard cupping certifications, including the New York Board of Trade and the Coffee Quality Institute “Q” grader certifications.
Most important, this approach leads to a more sound, scientific, and replicable method of cupping analysis that can make coffee businesses more profitable by ensuring better quality and consistency of product. Consumers are gravitating more and more to coffees that have specific flavor aspects that they find favorable. By meeting these desires and expectations, products can be developed and produced that have necessary specific flavors. Cuppers who are well practiced and educated can lead this process.